Men 3XL (chest 116 cm)

Long coat pattern, men's size 3XL (116 cm chest)

Double-breasted detective-style long coat with half belt. Sized without bust.

Long coat – Men 3XL (chest 116 cm)
Full pattern with 1 cm seam allowance · 201 × 177 cm
20pattern pieces
64pieces to cut
≈ 5.25 ydof main fabric (60" wide)

You will also need: lining, tailoring canvas.

Sewing instructions

General steps to sew this garment. Seam allowance is 1 cm (3/8") unless stated otherwise.

Supplies

  • Wool, melton or tweed
  • Lining fabric
  • Tailoring canvas
  • Buttons
  • Matching thread and the right needle
  1. Print the pattern at 100%, check the test square and cut the pieces following the cutting list. Transfer notches, darts and button marks.
  2. Interface the facings, collar, pocket openings and front as marked.
  3. Make the welt or flap pockets following the marks, before joining the main pieces.
  4. Assemble the shell: back, side and shoulder seams; press each seam as you go.
  5. Attach the half belt at the back and the chest flap if you chose it.
  6. Sew the two-piece sleeve (top and under sleeve) and set it into the armhole, easing the cap.
  7. Join collar and undercollar, turn and attach them to the neckline together with the facings.
  8. Assemble the lining like the shell, attach it to the facings and bag it at the hem, leaving an opening to turn.
  9. Mark and sew the buttonholes, then sew on the buttons opposite them.

Cutting list

PieceCutMaterial
Front2×Main fabric
Front facing2×Main fabric
Front lining2×Lining
Back2×Main fabric
Back2×Lining
Back stay1× on the foldTailoring canvas
Tail2×Main fabric
Tail2×Lining
Top sleeve2×Main fabric
Top sleeve2×Lining
Under sleeve2×Main fabric
Under sleeve2×Main fabric
Under sleeve2×Lining
Belt4×Main fabric
Collar stand2×Main fabric
Collar stand1×Tailoring canvas
Collar2×Main fabric
Collar1×Tailoring canvas
Cuff facing2×Main fabric
Cuff facing2×Tailoring canvas
Pocket2×Main fabric
Pocket2×Lining
Pocket flap4×Main fabric
Pocket flap2×Tailoring canvas
Pocket lining2×Main fabric
Pocket lining2×Lining
Chest pocket welt2×Main fabric
Chest pocket bag2×Main fabric
Inner pocket welt2×Main fabric
Inner pocket welt2×Tailoring canvas
Inner pocket bag2×Lining
Inner pocket tab1×Main fabric

Measurements used in this size

MeasurementValueHow to measure
Biceps circumference40.5 cmAround the widest part of the relaxed upper arm.
Chest/bust circumference115.8 cmAround the torso at the fullest part of the chest, tape level.
Shoulder to bust30.9 cmFrom the high point of the shoulder (next to the neck) to the bust point.
Back length51.8 cmFrom the high shoulder point, down the back, to the waist.
Neck circumference44 cmAround the base of the neck, where a shirt collar sits.
Shoulder width49.6 cmFrom one shoulder point to the other, across the back.
Shoulder slope13°Shoulder angle in degrees (usually between 10 and 15).
Waist to armpit23.2 cmVertically along the side, from the waist to the armpit.
Waist to hips14.3 cmAlong the side, from the waist to the hip line.
Waist circumference91.9 cmAround your natural waist, the narrowest part of the torso.
Waist to floor123.3 cmAlong the side, from the waist to the floor, barefoot.
Waist to seat29.8 cmAlong the side, from the waist to the fullest part of the buttocks.
Seat circumference111.7 cmAround the fullest part of the buttocks.
Shoulder to elbow38.8 cmFrom the shoulder point to the elbow, arm slightly bent.
Arm length66 cmFrom the shoulder point to the wrist, arm slightly bent.
Wrist circumference18.9 cmAround the wrist, over the bone.

Between two sizes?

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