Jackets & coats · Expert
Long coat sewing pattern
Double-breasted detective-style long coat with half belt. Sized without bust.
Choose your size
Each size has its own page with the full pattern, the cutting list and the measurements used.
Pattern preview
You will also need: lining, tailoring canvas.
Sewing instructions
General steps to sew this garment. Seam allowance is 1 cm (3/8") unless stated otherwise.
Supplies
- Wool, melton or tweed
- Lining fabric
- Tailoring canvas
- Buttons
- Matching thread and the right needle
- Print the pattern at 100%, check the test square and cut the pieces following the cutting list. Transfer notches, darts and button marks.
- Interface the facings, collar, pocket openings and front as marked.
- Make the welt or flap pockets following the marks, before joining the main pieces.
- Assemble the shell: back, side and shoulder seams; press each seam as you go.
- Attach the half belt at the back and the chest flap if you chose it.
- Sew the two-piece sleeve (top and under sleeve) and set it into the armhole, easing the cap.
- Join collar and undercollar, turn and attach them to the neckline together with the facings.
- Assemble the lining like the shell, attach it to the facings and bag it at the hem, leaving an opening to turn.
- Mark and sew the buttonholes, then sew on the buttons opposite them.
Cutting list
| Piece | Cut | Material |
|---|---|---|
| Front | 2× | Main fabric |
| Front facing | 2× | Main fabric |
| Front lining | 2× | Lining |
| Back | 2× | Main fabric |
| Back | 2× | Lining |
| Back stay | 1× on the fold | Tailoring canvas |
| Tail | 2× | Main fabric |
| Tail | 2× | Lining |
| Top sleeve | 2× | Main fabric |
| Top sleeve | 2× | Lining |
| Under sleeve | 2× | Main fabric |
| Under sleeve | 2× | Main fabric |
| Under sleeve | 2× | Lining |
| Belt | 4× | Main fabric |
| Collar stand | 2× | Main fabric |
| Collar stand | 1× | Tailoring canvas |
| Collar | 2× | Main fabric |
| Collar | 1× | Tailoring canvas |
| Cuff facing | 2× | Main fabric |
| Cuff facing | 2× | Tailoring canvas |
| 2× | Main fabric | |
| 2× | Lining | |
| Pocket flap | 4× | Main fabric |
| Pocket flap | 2× | Tailoring canvas |
| Pocket lining | 2× | Main fabric |
| Pocket lining | 2× | Lining |
| Chest pocket welt | 2× | Main fabric |
| Chest pocket bag | 2× | Main fabric |
| Inner pocket welt | 2× | Main fabric |
| Inner pocket welt | 2× | Tailoring canvas |
| Inner pocket bag | 2× | Lining |
| Inner pocket tab | 1× | Main fabric |
Measurements needed
| Measurement | How to measure |
|---|---|
| Biceps circumference | Around the widest part of the relaxed upper arm. |
| Chest/bust circumference | Around the torso at the fullest part of the chest, tape level. |
| Shoulder to bust | From the high point of the shoulder (next to the neck) to the bust point. |
| Back length | From the high shoulder point, down the back, to the waist. |
| Neck circumference | Around the base of the neck, where a shirt collar sits. |
| Shoulder width | From one shoulder point to the other, across the back. |
| Shoulder slope | Shoulder angle in degrees (usually between 10 and 15). |
| Waist to armpit | Vertically along the side, from the waist to the armpit. |
| Waist to hips | Along the side, from the waist to the hip line. |
| Waist circumference | Around your natural waist, the narrowest part of the torso. |
| Waist to floor | Along the side, from the waist to the floor, barefoot. |
| Waist to seat | Along the side, from the waist to the fullest part of the buttocks. |
| Seat circumference | Around the fullest part of the buttocks. |
| Shoulder to elbow | From the shoulder point to the elbow, arm slightly bent. |
| Arm length | From the shoulder point to the wrist, arm slightly bent. |
| Wrist circumference | Around the wrist, over the bone. |
FAQ
Is the long coat pattern really free?
Yes. Every Kutopy pattern is free, with no sign-up and no watermarks. You can sew and sell what you make.
Which measurements do I need?
This pattern uses 16 body measurements. If you don't know them, pick a standard size or follow our measuring guide.
Does it include seam allowance?
Yes, it includes 1 cm (3/8") seam allowance (outer dashed line). You can remove it in the editor.
How do I print it at full scale?
In the editor pick your paper and tap "Download PDF". At home: numbered Letter or A4 pages you tape together. At a print shop or plotter: full size on one sheet, a 36" roll or large sheets. Always print at 100% and check the 10 × 5 cm test square.
