Women M (bust 93 cm)
Long coat with bust pattern, women's size M (93 cm bust)
Double-breasted detective-style long coat, adapted for the bust.
21pattern pieces
70pieces to cut
≈ 3.75 ydof main fabric (60" wide)
You will also need: lining, tailoring canvas.
Sewing instructions
General steps to sew this garment. Seam allowance is 1 cm (3/8") unless stated otherwise.
Supplies
- Wool, melton or tweed
- Lining fabric
- Tailoring canvas
- Buttons
- Matching thread and the right needle
- Print the pattern at 100%, check the test square and cut the pieces following the cutting list. Transfer notches, darts and button marks.
- Interface the facings, collar, pocket openings and front as marked.
- Sew the princess seams matching the notches; clip the curves before pressing.
- Make the welt or flap pockets following the marks, before joining the main pieces.
- Assemble the shell: back, side and shoulder seams; press each seam as you go.
- Sew the two-piece sleeve (top and under sleeve) and set it into the armhole, easing the cap.
- Join collar and undercollar, turn and attach them to the neckline together with the facings.
- Assemble the lining like the shell, attach it to the facings and bag it at the hem, leaving an opening to turn.
- Mark and sew the buttonholes, then sew on the buttons opposite them.
Cutting list
| Piece | Cut | Material |
|---|---|---|
| Front | 2× | Main fabric |
| Front | 2× | Lining |
| Front facing | 2× | Main fabric |
| Front lining | 2× | Lining |
| Side | 2× | Main fabric |
| Side | 2× | Lining |
| Back | 2× | Main fabric |
| Back | 2× | Lining |
| Back stay | 1× on the fold | Tailoring canvas |
| Tail | 2× | Main fabric |
| Tail | 2× | Lining |
| Belt | 4× | Main fabric |
| Top sleeve | 2× | Main fabric |
| Top sleeve | 2× | Lining |
| Under sleeve | 2× | Main fabric |
| Under sleeve | 2× | Main fabric |
| Under sleeve | 2× | Lining |
| Collar stand | 2× | Main fabric |
| Collar stand | 1× | Tailoring canvas |
| Collar | 2× | Main fabric |
| Collar | 1× | Tailoring canvas |
| Cuff facing | 2× | Main fabric |
| Cuff facing | 2× | Tailoring canvas |
| 2× | Main fabric | |
| 2× | Lining | |
| Pocket flap | 4× | Main fabric |
| Pocket flap | 2× | Tailoring canvas |
| Pocket lining | 2× | Main fabric |
| Pocket lining | 2× | Lining |
| Chest pocket welt | 2× | Main fabric |
| Chest pocket bag | 2× | Main fabric |
| Inner pocket welt | 2× | Main fabric |
| Inner pocket welt | 2× | Tailoring canvas |
| Inner pocket bag | 2× | Lining |
| Inner pocket tab | 1× | Main fabric |
Measurements used in this size
| Measurement | Value | How to measure |
|---|---|---|
| Biceps circumference | 27 cm | Around the widest part of the relaxed upper arm. |
| Chest/bust circumference | 92.5 cm | Around the torso at the fullest part of the chest, tape level. |
| Shoulder to bust | 27.5 cm | From the high point of the shoulder (next to the neck) to the bust point. |
| Back length | 39.5 cm | From the high shoulder point, down the back, to the waist. |
| Neck circumference | 34 cm | Around the base of the neck, where a shirt collar sits. |
| Shoulder width | 41.5 cm | From one shoulder point to the other, across the back. |
| Shoulder slope | 13° | Shoulder angle in degrees (usually between 10 and 15). |
| Waist to armpit | 17 cm | Vertically along the side, from the waist to the armpit. |
| Waist to hips | 12.5 cm | Along the side, from the waist to the hip line. |
| Waist circumference | 75 cm | Around your natural waist, the narrowest part of the torso. |
| Waist to floor | 105 cm | Along the side, from the waist to the floor, barefoot. |
| Waist to seat | 25 cm | Along the side, from the waist to the fullest part of the buttocks. |
| Seat circumference | 101 cm | Around the fullest part of the buttocks. |
| High bust circumference | 86.5 cm | Around the torso, under the armpits and above the bust. |
| Bust span | 16 cm | Horizontal distance between the two bust points. |
| Shoulder to elbow | 34 cm | From the shoulder point to the elbow, arm slightly bent. |
| Arm length | 59 cm | From the shoulder point to the wrist, arm slightly bent. |
| Wrist circumference | 16.5 cm | Around the wrist, over the bone. |
Between two sizes?
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