Men S (chest 90 cm)
Bomber jacket pattern, men's size S (90 cm chest)
Bomber or varsity jacket with knit cuffs and hem.
12pattern pieces
26pieces to cut
≈ 1 ydof main fabric (60" wide)
You will also need: lining, ribbing.
Sewing instructions
General steps to sew this garment. Seam allowance is 1 cm (3/8") unless stated otherwise.
Supplies
- Woven fabric (cotton, linen, poplin…)
- Lining fabric
- Ribbing for cuffs and neckline
- Separating zipper
- Matching thread and the right needle
- Prewash and press your fabric before cutting so it will not shrink after sewing.
- Print the pattern at 100%, check the test square and cut the pieces following the cutting list. Transfer notches, darts and button marks.
- Make the welt or flap pockets following the marks, before joining the main pieces.
- Assemble the shell: back, side and shoulder seams; press each seam as you go.
- Set the sleeves in flat: match the top of the sleeve cap to the shoulder seam and ease the cap between the notches.
- Sew the underarm and side seam in one go, matching the armhole seams.
- Close the rib cuffs and hem band into loops, fold them in half and sew them on, stretching them to fit the garment.
- Assemble the lining like the shell, attach it to the facings and bag it at the hem, leaving an opening to turn.
- Sew the separating zipper to the center front, right sides together, and topstitch 3 mm from the edge.
Cutting list
| Piece | Cut | Material |
|---|---|---|
| Front | 2× | Lining |
| Back | 2× | Lining |
| Yoke | 2× | Lining |
| Lining back | 2× | Lining |
| Sleeve | 2× | Lining |
| Sleeve | 2× | Main fabric |
| Waistband | 1× | Ribbing |
| Waistband ends | 2× | Main fabric |
| Pocket welt | 2× | Main fabric |
| Collar ribbing | 1× on the fold | Ribbing |
| Pocket bag front | 2× | Main fabric |
| Pocket bag front | 2× | Lining |
| Cuff | 2× | Ribbing |
| Lining front | 2× | Lining |
Measurements used in this size
| Measurement | Value | How to measure |
|---|---|---|
| Biceps circumference | 31.3 cm | Around the widest part of the relaxed upper arm. |
| Chest/bust circumference | 89.5 cm | Around the torso at the fullest part of the chest, tape level. |
| Shoulder to bust | 26.1 cm | From the high point of the shoulder (next to the neck) to the bust point. |
| Back length | 43.8 cm | From the high shoulder point, down the back, to the waist. |
| Neck circumference | 34 cm | Around the base of the neck, where a shirt collar sits. |
| Shoulder width | 41.9 cm | From one shoulder point to the other, across the back. |
| Shoulder slope | 13° | Shoulder angle in degrees (usually between 10 and 15). |
| Waist to armpit | 19.6 cm | Vertically along the side, from the waist to the armpit. |
| Waist to hips | 12.1 cm | Along the side, from the waist to the hip line. |
| High bust circumference | 92.2 cm | Around the torso, under the armpits and above the bust. |
| Hip circumference | 75.2 cm | Around the hips, at the level of the hip bones. |
| Front length | 42.9 cm | From the high shoulder point, down the front, to the waist. |
| Bust span | 18 cm | Horizontal distance between the two bust points. |
| Waist circumference | 73.8 cm | Around your natural waist, the narrowest part of the torso. |
| Arm length | 61 cm | From the shoulder point to the wrist, arm slightly bent. |
| Wrist circumference | 16.6 cm | Around the wrist, over the bone. |
Between two sizes?
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